The Road through Shire leads us to Wine Country

“Haere Mai” and “Welcome”

I am on the lookout for Bilbo Baggins and Gandolph as my imagination takes hold. I can see the Hobbits  tramping across the green fields and rolling hills in their quest of the ring. Then there is the beauty of Haka Falls and it’s captivating hues of blues and bubbling foam, and you can see why this region was chosen as a backdrop for The Hobbit. Arriving at Lake Taupo I can see in the distance, across the lake, the dramatic scene of three active volcanoes, Ruapehu, Tongariro and Ngauruhoe. To my amazement there is actually steam rising from Ruapehu. Much of Sam and Frodo’s journey in The Lord of the Rings was filmed here. It is a reality that any one of these mountain tops could blow again and from time to time, hiking through the region is banned due to the poisonous gases emanating from the depths of the earth. However the locals take it in stride as a price to pay for living in such a magnificent setting and it is difficult to argue that point.

Lunch at the world famous Mission Winery seemed appropriate and a cold bottle of Reisling at $29.50 (approx. $27.00 CDN) tax and service included was an investment well worthwhile. Service was impeccable and my Chicken Caesar Salad with poached egg was delicious. MMMmmmm. That evening we stayed in the town of Napier which was devastated by an earthquake in 1931. Reconstruction was done in an orderly fashion with Art Deco being the theme an now tourists from all over, flock to see what I would describe as a Hollywood set design for any 1930s feature movie. The “Wine Route” continued on towards Martinborough where wine boutiques and winery’s were in abundance. Our accommodation that night was an exceptional cottage in a grouping of cottages located in a vineyard. This morning we happened in on a local fair/market which was exceptional. We were told that there were anywhere between 20,000 and 25,000 visitors who would attend this one day event. The food stands were unique as were most of the handicraft displays.

We have arrived in Wellington, the capital city of New Zealand for our 3 hour ferry ride to the south island tomorrow morning. A beautiful sunny day once again and the sail boats with full spinnakers opened, crowd Lampton Harbour, the gateway to the Cook Straight. We can see the inter island ferries approaching the harbour from our unique Museum Hotel room. Buildings of eight stories seem to be the maximum due to the constant ever threat of earthquakes. We are on the sixth floor but a good bottle of Pinot tonight will help me wipe clean the concern for inevitable disaster. This afternoon we drive the Marine Scenic drive to view the capital from the opposite side of the harbour and I am once again completely in awe as to the active and good living lifestyle the Kiwi’s seem to embrace everywhere.

Geysers, Mud pools and the Maori people

“Haere Mai” and “Welcome”.

We started leaving the coastal region heading inland, the countryside becoming  greener with rolling hills surrounding us on all sides, as the road meandered and turned in every which direction . Huge herds of both dairy cattle and large flocks of sheep were everywhere. The nation’s agricultural industry powers the economy and this became very apparent driving through this rich fertile region.

The geothermal region near Rotorua and Lake Rotoua, on the geothermal route, powers 5 % of all New Zealand’s power grid.  We took the advice of our B&B hostess Colleen, to head to the Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland to experience the phenomenon of geysers blowing hot water to heights of 60 feet, mud pools bubbling away, steamy and sulfuric volcanic craters and bubbling vaporizing water pools. We initially intended to stay for two hours but ended up staying for four and a half. This tour was unique to any of our previous experiences, and without a doubt, a memorable morning.

This was followed by a quick visit to the local museum to learn more about the Maori people who discovered this land by travelling by double hulled canoes from the far off regions of Polynesia with a one way ticket. With all they could carry to establish their new lives, they fearlessly set out, following the stars, water currents, trade winds and bird migration routes. These proud and fierce warriors have integrated extremely well since the inhabitation of the British and now, living in peace, have proudly sustained their rituals and cultural heritage. The evening dinner and ritual dance presentation attested that these indigenous peoples have embraced their cultural divide with economic reality and live in harmony with all their fellow inhabitants.

Circumnavigating the Coromandel Peninsula

“Haere Mai” and “Welcome”. About an hour’s drive south east of Auckland we embark on our circumnavigation of the Coromandel Peninsula. The treacherous drive on the narrow, two lane stretch of hiway, with no barriers on the cliff side of the road, bring little comfort to the navigator who not once chastised the driver for going to close to the cliff’s edge. The rewards were well worth the white knuckles as the views of the western shores of the Pacific Ocean were magnificent on a beautiful sunny day. It reminded me of the drive down the Big Sur hiway on the eastern extremities of the Pacific along the California coast. The magnificent Coromandel Cliffs, stretching 90 degrees vertically and the road ever perilous to the edge, as multitudes of pickup trucks and cars pulling motor boats for family fishing expeditions, continually threatened to ease over into our lane of traffic. Small fishing and holiday communities were abundant, but despite it being tourist season and the school summer break well underway, the many, many white beaches that stretched for miles were relatively left abandoned for those looking for solace and relaxation. The sole exception, being that of the Hotwater Beach near Tairua, where we spent two evenings.

Though the following day was overcast we ventured out to take in this geothermic phenomenon and though we decided not to dig out and sit in a hotwater pool of our own creation, we did bury our feet into the sand and water and to our amazement had to quickly retreat as the water was so hot it started to burn our feet. A long walk along the beach at Cooks Beach and a short ferry ride over to Whitianga for lunch at a local marina, watching families partake in a favorite pastime of cast fishing into the ocean, was the order, for the remainder of this Sunday afternoon

In contrast, though not surprisingly, the British influence is all around. The drives through the interior of the peninsula on these narrow, though well kept roads was like a drive through the British countryside. A stop at a tea house, with well manicured gardens and a unique gift shop with art gallery, brought back memories of a bygone era.

Prior to leaving this picturesque region this morning, we took it upon ourselves to take a short hike up the local high peak at Tairua, to take in the breathtaking vistas from the summit and the image I remember, will probably be left entrenched in my memory for some time to come.